Notice how the crack runs along the edges of cleats reinforcing another crack. This is common.

The old cleats are removed that are next to the crack.

The old cleats are carved down to a thin film of wood, then the remainder is carefully moistened to remove the rest of the cleat.

Old cleats moistened for removal

All traces of the old cleats are removed

The top crack is glued closed

Crack is glued

Chalk is used to determine where the new and previously existing cracks are located.

New cleats are fitted to reinforce the new and the old cracks

New cleats fitted

Gluing of cleats

New cleats are carved to proper shape

Cleats are rounded

Cleats are scarfed at the ends

Finished cleats

The cracks are filled with a clear retouch varnish. This process may take several applications over the period of several days until the cracks have been filled

Not only was the wood cracked, but the varnish was cracked as well. Filling the cracked varnish provides an homogenous surface for adding color and texture to make the crack disappear.

The filler varnish is scraped to level it to the surface of the original varnish

The leveled filler varnish is smoothed to blend in with the original varnish.

The top is now ready to add color to the varnish.

Under UV light, cracks and repairs can easily be seen.

Color board, brushes and the top ready for final retouching.

Color is added and then sealed with coats of retouch varnish. In this way, the retouching can be blended with the original varnish.

Final coating of retouch varnish over color.

Finished retouching. The retouch varnish is smoothed to conform to the texture of the original varnish… then polished to blend in the new with the old.

Finished retouching

After completion of all gluing, cleating and retouching, the instrument is reassembled and set up to play. Hopefully, there will be no more accidents for a long time.